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Tc

Tc

0 - Default Title
Description
The former professional surfer tells his own story

On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction--part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he'd done so much to legitimize. Tom's family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral education: of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.

Product details
Binding:
Paperback
Edition:
1
Number of Pages:
368
Release Date:
2015-10-01
Publication Date:
2015-10-01
Publisher:
Penguin Random House Australia
Languages:
Original: English
ISBN10:
0857987054
ISBN13:
9780857987051
Weight:
278 g
Height:
129 cm
Width:
198 cm
Thickness:
30 cm
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